Day 1: The charming Old Town of Warsaw
I went Warsaw after three days spent in Berlin (or you can do the other way around). I booked my ticket online before my departure from Cairo through the German Railways website, very easy to book and print your electronic ticket, at very good prices. It's not a very long trip, around 5 hours, but the journey all the way in a comfortable German train was amazing: beautiful scenery of Polish villages and towns, sheep and cows starring us as we move fast, seeing the contrast between Polish old ladies and men in a their 40s outfit, and the newer generation. It's quite an experience.
I booked at the four stars Novotel Hotel for a good bargain, only 50 Euros. It is just five minutes from the train stations and fifteen minutes from the old town, overlooking the Defilad Square, a largest square in Warsaw. It was built to host the propaganda speeches of the Polish leaders and where all the patriotic marches and parades were taking place.
As I went out of the train station, a huge building strokes my sight at the Defilad Square. It's a mix of the American Empire Tower, the Londoner Big Ben Clock, and the 'Square' communist architecture with numerous blocs. A bizarre mixture. Later I discovered that it's the Palace of Culture and Science, the tallest building in Poland, and the 8th tallest in the EU, offered by Stalin to the Polish people and completely built by soviet workers. With its 42 floors and 3000 rooms, the Palace hosts the city's biggest cultural events and concerts. If you want to get a panoramic view of Warsaw, it's worth getting to the top floor. Despite its importance, many Poles has a certain hatred for the building as it reminds them of the old ugly days of the communist regime.
I went Warsaw after three days spent in Berlin (or you can do the other way around). I booked my ticket online before my departure from Cairo through the German Railways website, very easy to book and print your electronic ticket, at very good prices. It's not a very long trip, around 5 hours, but the journey all the way in a comfortable German train was amazing: beautiful scenery of Polish villages and towns, sheep and cows starring us as we move fast, seeing the contrast between Polish old ladies and men in a their 40s outfit, and the newer generation. It's quite an experience.
I booked at the four stars Novotel Hotel for a good bargain, only 50 Euros. It is just five minutes from the train stations and fifteen minutes from the old town, overlooking the Defilad Square, a largest square in Warsaw. It was built to host the propaganda speeches of the Polish leaders and where all the patriotic marches and parades were taking place.
As I went out of the train station, a huge building strokes my sight at the Defilad Square. It's a mix of the American Empire Tower, the Londoner Big Ben Clock, and the 'Square' communist architecture with numerous blocs. A bizarre mixture. Later I discovered that it's the Palace of Culture and Science, the tallest building in Poland, and the 8th tallest in the EU, offered by Stalin to the Polish people and completely built by soviet workers. With its 42 floors and 3000 rooms, the Palace hosts the city's biggest cultural events and concerts. If you want to get a panoramic view of Warsaw, it's worth getting to the top floor. Despite its importance, many Poles has a certain hatred for the building as it reminds them of the old ugly days of the communist regime.
If you feel like shopping on the first day and exploring some of the Polish brands, you will find many in the main avenue crossing the square, as well as the mall adjacent to the train station. Me personally, I started my Polish discovery by visiting the Stare Miasto, the Old Town where I spent almost my whole day. Just lose yourself in the place, between the old town's squares, and narrow streets, contemplating the architecture of the old colorful buildings and touching the stones of the city walls. Just make sure, while you wander, not to leave before seeing the following landmarks.
The first I crossed was the King Sigismund's Column, just in the middle of the Castle Square. The Square is apparently built on a hill, from which you can have a view over the city, as well as the stadium which was getting prepared for the European Football Cup, just one month away from the time I visited Warsaw. Lovely buildings surrounding the square, with many open air restaurants, and the flying helium balloons which makes it look like a fairytale.
The first I crossed was the King Sigismund's Column, just in the middle of the Castle Square. The Square is apparently built on a hill, from which you can have a view over the city, as well as the stadium which was getting prepared for the European Football Cup, just one month away from the time I visited Warsaw. Lovely buildings surrounding the square, with many open air restaurants, and the flying helium balloons which makes it look like a fairytale.
Then I arrived at the city walls, with its thousands red bricks from the 14th century. Just amazing to see how towns were protected in the ancient time, and they still survive despite the bombings on Warsaw during the WWII. It actually destroyed all the features of the Old Town, which was rebuilt later on, but apparently the Walls were not affected that much. A adjacent landmark of the walls, is the Barbican, a majestic castle-like fortification which will leave mesmerized.
If you have read my previous post about the Enchanted Cities of Eastern Europe, then don't forget to visit the gorgeous singing mermaid Sawa at the Old Town Market Place. Actually this place will remind you with Place des Tertres in Paris, or Piazza Navonna in Rome, as many artists are sitting just close to the mermaid, maybe in hope that she can inspire them and enchant them like she did to Wars? ... The tragic history of this place, from the great fire in the 17th century to the German invasion which blew the market place into pieces, is reminder of the great human power and will in preserving its heritage and identity. With each destruction, the area was rebuilt again, and today the buildings look exactly the same as they did when the rich merchants used to live in this part of the city.
Day 2: Warsaw Uprising Museum, Ghetto Wall and celebation of the Constitution Day
Which museum is the most visited in Warsaw? Will you say Frederick Chopin's? Well, it's not. Although recent and inaugurated only in 2004, a visit to the Warsaw Uprising Museum is quite an experience. Packed with a considerable amount of artifacts, photos, audiovisual materials, it does it only outline the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, but it plunges into the daily life under the Nazi occupation, with human and heroic stories surviving insurgents recalling their memories and the Robinsons, those who hidded in the Warsaw ruins during these days. You have probably the great movie 'The Pianist' which incarnates one of the famous Robinsons, the Polish pianist, Wladyslaw Szpilman. The Museum is smartly conceived over 3 floors, with perfect decoration, lighting and materials that will automatically dive into the feeling and spirit of this tragic historical era. Small details that will make you relate, like suitcases found in homes, love letters and other belongings.
Which museum is the most visited in Warsaw? Will you say Frederick Chopin's? Well, it's not. Although recent and inaugurated only in 2004, a visit to the Warsaw Uprising Museum is quite an experience. Packed with a considerable amount of artifacts, photos, audiovisual materials, it does it only outline the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, but it plunges into the daily life under the Nazi occupation, with human and heroic stories surviving insurgents recalling their memories and the Robinsons, those who hidded in the Warsaw ruins during these days. You have probably the great movie 'The Pianist' which incarnates one of the famous Robinsons, the Polish pianist, Wladyslaw Szpilman. The Museum is smartly conceived over 3 floors, with perfect decoration, lighting and materials that will automatically dive into the feeling and spirit of this tragic historical era. Small details that will make you relate, like suitcases found in homes, love letters and other belongings.
Walking around the area that was the Warsaw Ghetto, there is still evidence of the damage to buildings. And not far away, you can still find the only remaining fragment of the Ghetto Walls. Long narrow metal plaques have been installed on pavements to mark the places where some of the ghetto walls stood.
Now, after this long day, trying some Polish specialties is a must. The traditional Polish dish is the Pierogi, a half-moon shape dumplings boiled then baked or fried, and it comes with any kind of fillings you can fancy: meat, chicken, cheese, potato, and event fruits and chocolate. You can find different variations in other Eastern European cities. I found a Polish restaurant called Zapiecek in Old Town, apparently it's one of the best to serve this dish, as different branches can be seen in different areas of the Old Town and the city. Enjoy your delicious Pierogi in a traditional polish atmosphere, with waitresses in red and white traditional dresses and a coy wooden decoration.
It's the 3rd of May, Poland's Constitution Day, and the Old Town was all dressed in Red and White, even the blossoming Tulips planted in the streets. Nothing was more indulging then to end my trip on the rhythm of the Polka Dance, Polish Folk music and songs. Everyone is celebrating, cheering and happy: Old people, and the younger ones. A sign that only time can heal the wounds.